How to Change RO Filters at Home: Step-by-Step Guide (Ghar Par RO Filter Kaise Badle)

Most domestic RO purifiers use push-fit filters, so changing them yourself is easier than it looks. With the right parts and 20–30 minutes you can do a full filter change at home and save the technician visit charge. This guide covers the tools you need, the exact steps, and the mistakes that make new filters fail early.

Before you start: what you need

• The new filters for your purifier (see when to change RO filters) – or a ready RO service kit
• A housing spanner (filter opener) if your purifier has housings
• A bucket and an old towel for spilled water
• Teflon tape for threaded joints
• A TDS meter to check the result (optional but useful)

Tip: take a photo of the inside of your purifier before you remove anything. It makes it easy to put every pipe back in the right place.

Step-by-step: changing RO filters

1. Switch off and close the inlet. Unplug the purifier and close the inlet valve that brings water to it.
2. Release the pressure. Open the purifier tap and let the remaining water run out.
3. Open the cabinet. Most purifiers have a front or top cover held by clips or 2–4 screws.
4. Remove the sediment filter first. If it sits in a housing, unscrew the housing with the spanner and take out the old candle. If it is an inline filter, press the collet ring on the push-fit joint and pull the pipe out.
5. Replace the carbon filter the same way. Note the flow arrow printed on inline filters – water must flow in the direction of the arrow.
6. Replace post-carbon and mineral/alkaline filters if they are due.
7. Change the membrane only if needed. Unscrew the membrane housing cap, pull out the old membrane and push the new one in firmly until it seats on the inner O-rings. Check your output TDS first – a membrane usually lasts 1.5–3 years.
8. Reconnect every pipe fully. Push each pipe about 1.5 cm into the joint until it stops, then pull gently to confirm it is locked.

Flush the new filters

New carbon and membrane elements release fine carbon dust and preservative. Open the inlet, switch the purifier on and let it fill the tank. Drain the first full tank (or the first 10–15 minutes of water) and do not drink it. Check every joint for leaks while the pump is running.

Check the result

Measure the TDS of your input water and the RO output. Output TDS should normally be a small fraction of the input (roughly below 10% if there is no TDS controller). Water flow should also be noticeably faster than before the change.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Changing only the membrane and skipping pre-filters – the new membrane chokes quickly.
• Fitting inline filters backwards – always follow the arrow.
• Not pushing pipes in fully – this is the most common cause of leaks after a service.
• Over-tightening housings – hand-tight plus a small turn with the spanner is enough; too much force cracks the O-ring or housing.
• Buying the wrong size – 10 inch housings, 12 inch inline filters and different membrane sizes are not interchangeable.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I change RO filters?

Sediment filters usually every 3–6 months, carbon and post filters every 6–12 months, and the membrane every 1.5–3 years. Borewell or tanker water needs faster changes.

Can I change RO filters without a technician?

Yes. Push-fit filters need no special skill. You only need a housing spanner if your purifier has filter housings.

Why is my RO leaking after changing filters?

Usually a pipe is not pushed fully into a push-fit joint, or a housing O-ring is not seated. Switch off, re-seat the pipe or O-ring and test again.

Which filters do I need for my RO?

Most domestic purifiers use a sediment, a carbon, a membrane and one or two post filters. Our service kits bundle the common combinations.

Need help choosing the right part? Send a photo of your RO or its model name on WhatsApp (96252 23245) and we will tell you exactly what fits. You can also pick a ready service kit with all the usual filters together.